How to Make a Dried-Flower Resin Pendant

To make a resin pendant, start with a level, dust-free workspace and choose a silicone pendant mold or bezel. Arrange fully dry flowers or other small decorations before mixing anything. Measure and mix the resin exactly as its label directs, pour slowly, place inclusions deliberately, reduce surface bubbles, and let the casting cure before demolding. Smooth or polish rough edges if needed. Then attach a jump ring through the pendant opening or bezel loop and add a necklace chain.

UV resin and two-part epoxy change the workflow. Go slowly. Ratios, volume-versus-weight measurement, cure times, layer limits, lamp requirements, temperature guidance, handling, and disposal vary by product, so the label and safety data sheet control the process.

Gather the Materials and Prepare a Dust-Free Workspace

Set out everything before opening the resin. Interruptions can make careful measuring and flower placement harder, especially when several small inclusions are involved. Prepare first.

You will typically need:

• A silicone pendant mold or bezel.
• UV resin or two-part epoxy, according to the process you choose.
• Mixing cups and sticks for two-part epoxy.
• Fully dry flowers, glitter, foil, mica powder, resin dye, or tiny charms.
• Jump rings, a necklace chain, and other jewelry findings.
• Fine sanding pads and polishing compound for finishing if needed.

Cover a level surface with a silicone mat or plastic sheet. Keep the workspace as dust-free as possible, provide suitable ventilation, and wear the protective equipment specified by the product.

Use the product label and safety data sheet as the controlling source for the resin ratio, volume-versus-weight measurement, cure time, layer limits, lamp requirements, temperature guidance, handling, storage, and disposal. Those details vary from one product to another.

Some beginner guidance mentions approximately 70-75 degrees F as a workable room temperature. Resin Passion presents that range as an example, not a universal requirement. If your resin label gives different temperature guidance, follow it instead.

Choose Between UV Resin and Two-Part Epoxy

Choose the resin process before arranging your design. The choice changes how you measure, layer, and cure the pendant, but it doesn't establish a universal quality ranking.

Option	Mixing	Equipment	Layer workflow	Curing
UV resin	Single component; no separate hardener is added.	A compatible UV lamp is required.	Pour thin layers, position inclusions, and cure each layer separately. Deeper designs may require repeated layers.	Cure under the lamp according to the resin instructions, lamp strength, formula, and layer thickness.
Two-part epoxy	Measure resin and hardener using the product-specified ratio by volume or weight.	Mixing cups and sticks are needed; no lamp is used for its room-temperature cure.	A deeper design may be built in stages if the product allows it.	Leave it undisturbed at room temperature for the product's stated cure period.

UV resin may suit a small pendant if you already have a compatible lamp and want to work in separate thin layers. It's a relatively direct setup.

Two-part epoxy may suit you if you prefer a room-temperature process and can wait hours or days for curing. No lamp is needed for that cure.

Read the label before beginning. It determines the resin-to-hardener ratio, whether measurement is by volume or weight, the maximum layer guidance, lamp requirements, and curing conditions.

Select the Mold or Bezel and Prepare the Decorations

A silicone pendant mold creates a standalone resin shape that can be released after curing. A bezel holds the resin inside a frame, and its loop or opening may provide a planned attachment point for a jump ring.

Arrange the design while everything is dry. Place the flower, glitter, foil, mica, dye, or tiny charm where you want it, then check that the pendant opening or bezel loop stays clear. A neat dry layout saves fuss later, because once the resin is flowing, moving one tiny foil piece can disturb the flower beside it and the opening you meant to leave clear.

Dried flowers must be completely dry before embedding. You can seal them with a clear-drying acrylic spray before they go into the resin; let the coating dry according to its own directions. Resin Obsession also recommends preparing flowers carefully before embedding them.

Fresh flowers aren't recommended for this project. Their moisture may cloud the resin, discolor the flower, or interfere with curing. This is a moisture-related caution, not a claim that fresh flowers can never be used in every resin process.

Measure, Mix, and Pour the Resin

Once the design is ready, slow down. Controlled steps matter here.

1. Check the epoxy ratio. Confirm whether the manufacturer specifies measurement by volume or by weight. Some products use 1:1, but that isn't a universal epoxy ratio. Never transfer a ratio from another bottle or tutorial.

2. Measure precisely. Use clean cups and follow the product's stated order for combining resin and hardener. The amount depends on the mold or bezel, so use the product and mold guidance instead of a universal quantity.

3. Mix slowly and thoroughly. Scrape the sides and bottom of the cup as you stir. Fast mixing can introduce more air, while incomplete mixing can contribute to a sticky surface. Resin Passion describes this careful, label-led approach for beginner resin jewelry.

4. Change the process for UV resin. Add no hardener. Pour a thin layer, place the decorations, and cure that layer under a compatible lamp according to the product instructions. Deeper designs require separate layers rather than one thick pour.

5. Pour close to the surface. Let the resin flow gently into the mold or bezel instead of dropping it from high above. Place each flower, foil piece, glitter area, or charm intentionally as the resin reaches it.

For epoxy, build layers only when the product instructions allow it. With UV resin, cure each layer separately and follow the stated layer limits rather than copying a depth from a different formula.

Reduce Bubbles and Keep Inclusions in Position

Bubble control starts during mixing. Stir slowly, dispense the resin close to the mold or bezel surface, and watch the casting as it settles.

If a surface bubble remains, use a warmed needle or toothpick to guide it toward the edge or break it at the surface. Work gently. A flower can shift easily.

A brief pass with a heat gun or small torch may help release surface bubbles. Excess heat can warp silicone, scorch dried flowers, or create ripples in the resin. Keep the pass brief and follow the resin and tool instructions. Resin Obsession discusses heat as a cautious bubble-control step rather than a guaranteed solution.

Don't assume one heat-tool distance will suit every product or pendant. The right approach depends on the resin and the piece in front of you.

Low-viscosity UV resin can let flowers, foil, or charms shift. Position each decoration carefully and cure the layer promptly because timing depends on the resin's viscosity, lamp, formula, and instructions.

Cure According to the Product Instructions Before Demolding

Cure the casting before you start finishing it. The resin label decides when that happens.

UV resin

Cure every thin layer separately under a compatible UV lamp. Exposure time depends on the resin brand, lamp strength, layer thickness, formula, and the manufacturer's instructions.

Reported tutorial times vary. A number from another project shouldn't replace the instructions supplied with your resin and lamp.

A deeper UV pendant may need several rounds of pouring and curing. Keep the piece steady between layers, and make sure the lamp can reach the resin surface as directed.

Two-part epoxy

Keep the pendant covered and undisturbed while the epoxy cures. Room temperature, pour thickness, formula, and accurate mixing all affect when the piece is ready.

Cited tutorials discuss epoxy demolding at different points. Some describe approximately 12-24 hours, while others describe 24-48 hours, so treat roughly 12-48 hours as a broad, product-dependent reference rather than a fixed appointment.

Full hardness is discussed around approximately 48-72 hours in the same type of guidance. Hobby Shop Online and Resin Passion both make clear that the product's own cure instructions should control.

Demolding before the stated time can leave a pendant soft, dented, or warped. If the casting still feels soft, or the label hasn't confirmed its cure condition, leave it longer and avoid handling it.

Smooth, Polish, and Assemble the Finished Pendant

Inspect the cured piece before adding hardware. Look for overflow drips, sharp ridges, rough edges, or sagging around the bezel and pendant opening.

Use fine sanding pads when an edge needs smoothing. Polishing compound may help restore the surface afterward. The appropriate sanding and polishing approach depends on the casting, so don't assume one grit or polishing time will suit every resin.

To assemble the pendant, pass a jump ring through the bezel loop or the opening in the cured piece. Close the ring securely, then thread the necklace chain through it. RESINPRO describes this basic jump-ring and chain connection as the final jewelry step.

Before wearing the pendant, confirm that the resin has reached the product's stated cure condition. Follow the manufacturer's handling guidance as well.

Troubleshoot Sticky, Cloudy, Bubbly, or Shifted Pendants

Start with the visible symptom, then revisit the part of the process most likely to have caused it. Thing is, the surface doesn't always tell the whole story.

Sticky or gummy surface: For two-part epoxy, check whether the resin and hardener followed the correct ratio, whether you mixed the cup sides and bottom thoroughly, and whether the curing temperature followed the label. Don't assume the pendant is ready just because the top looks set.

Excess bubbles: Review how vigorously you stirred, how far the resin dropped during pouring, and how much heat you applied. Too much heat can create ripples even while it removes some surface bubbles.

Cloudy UV resin: Consider moisture contamination, condensation on a cold bezel, or high humidity. InCure Lab links these conditions with haze in UV resin, so check the workspace and materials as well as the resin itself.

Shifted inclusions: Low-viscosity UV resin may allow flowers, foil, or charms to move before curing. Position the inclusion carefully and cure promptly, following the layer and lamp instructions for that product.

Soft or warped pendant: Allow more product-specific cure time and avoid early demolding. Depending on the resin, a thicker area, colder room, inaccurate mixing in two-part epoxy, or a formula with a longer cure schedule can change when the pendant is ready.

Resin Pendant FAQ

Does every resin use a 1:1 ratio?

No. Some products use 1:1, while others use different ratios. The label may also require measurement by volume or by weight, so use the instructions for that exact resin.

How do I judge epoxy cure time?

Use the product's stated demolding and full-cure conditions as separate milestones. Approximate tutorial ranges can provide context, but room temperature, thickness, formula, and mixing accuracy may change the timing.

Can fresh flowers be embedded in resin?

Fresh flowers aren't recommended because their moisture may cloud, discolor, or interfere with curing. Use completely dry flowers, with a clear-drying acrylic spray as an optional preparation step.

Why might UV resin look cloudy?

Possible causes include moisture contamination, condensation on a cold bezel, and high humidity. Check the materials and workspace before adding another layer.

Why is my resin pendant still sticky?

For two-part epoxy, possible causes include an incorrect resin-to-hardener ratio, incomplete mixing, or curing in a cold room. Check the product instructions before deciding whether the piece needs more cure time.

Set out the supplies, read the exact resin label, and keep the pendant covered until it has cured completely. Add the findings and wear it only after the stated cure condition and handling guidance have been met.